How to level a pool table after a move
By Pool Table Movers team · Published · Updated
To level a pool table after a move, first level the frame using its adjustable feet, then set and shim each slate so the seams are flush and the whole bed reads level in every direction on an engineer's level. Fill the seams, re-cover the bed and test with rolled balls. On slate tables this is precise work, which is why movers rebuild and level as part of the job.
Why levelling matters
A pool table only plays properly when the bed is flat and level. Even a small slope makes slow-rolling balls drift, which spoils positional play and makes the table frustrating. Moving a table changes everything: the floor in the new room will be different, the frame may have shifted, and the slates have been removed and replaced. A table that was perfect in its old room will not be level in its new one without adjustment.
Levelling is not the same as making the table look straight. Floors that look flat often fall a few millimetres across a room, and that is enough to affect play. Precision tools and patience are what make the difference.
Tools you will need
The essential tool is an accurate level. A machinist's or engineer's level is far more sensitive than a builder's spirit level and shows the tiny slopes that matter on a pool table. A long straight edge helps check the bed across the seams. You will also need shims (thin hardwood, plastic or metal packers), a spanner or socket set for the feet and slate screws, slate filler or beeswax for the seams, a scraper and something to heat wax if you use it.
A helper is useful, both for lifting the table to adjust the feet and for reading the level while you adjust.
Step one: position and level the frame
Put the frame in its final position before you do anything else, because moving it later will undo your work. Check the room for the space needed to play from every side. If the floor is soft, place leg cups or boards under each foot to stop them sinking.
Most frames have adjustable feet or levelling bolts. Place the level along the long rails of the frame, then across the short rails, then diagonally. Adjust the feet until the frame is as close to level as you can get it. Getting the frame right first means less shimming is needed under the slates.
Step two: set and shim the slates
For a one-piece slate, lower it carefully onto the frame and screw it down evenly. Check level in every direction and shim between the slate and frame where needed. For three-piece and five-piece beds, place the centre slate first, then the end slates, aligning the edges so the seams meet cleanly.
Run your fingers and a straight edge across each seam. The surfaces should be exactly flush, with no lip in either direction. Where one slate sits lower, slide shims under it at the frame supports until it matches its neighbour. Tighten the slate screws gradually, working across the table, and re-check as you go, because tightening can pull a slate out of level.
Once the seams are flush, check the whole bed again with the level in a grid pattern: lengthways, across and diagonally, near the cushions and in the middle. Fine-tune with shims until the reading is consistent everywhere.
Step three: fill the seams
Fill the gaps between the slates with a suitable filler or melted beeswax. Overfill slightly, let it harden, then scrape it flush with the slate surface so the ball runs over the seam without a bump. Any screw holes and small chips can be filled the same way. A smooth, continuous bed is the goal.
Step four: re-cover and refit
Stretch the bed cloth evenly across the slate, fixing it at the edges without pulling it out of shape. Refit the cushion rails, making sure the cushions sit at a consistent height and the joints between rails are tight. Refit the pockets. Re-check the level on the cloth; the cloth should not change the reading if it has been fitted evenly.
Step five: test the table
Roll a ball slowly down the length of the table from each end and across from each side. A level table lets it run straight and slow without drifting. Roll balls along each cushion too. If a ball drifts consistently in one direction, go back and adjust. Some fitters also check with a ball rolled from a ramp so that each test is at the same speed.
Levelling non-slate tables
MDF and slatron tables are levelled differently. They have no separate slate to shim, so levelling relies almost entirely on the adjustable feet or packers under the legs. Check level along both lengths, across both ends and diagonally, then adjust the feet a little at a time. Because these beds are not as rigid as slate, they can sag slightly in the middle, and a perfectly level reading at every point may not be possible. Aim for the best overall reading and test with rolled balls.
Floors and long-term level
A newly installed table can settle over the first few weeks, particularly on suspended timber floors, thick carpet or newly laid flooring. Carpet underlay compresses under the weight and timber floors can deflect slightly. Check the table with a level after a few weeks and adjust the feet if needed. On carpet, leg cups spread the load and reduce settling.
Seasonal changes affect timber floors and frames too. A slight roll that appears in winter and disappears in summer is usually down to humidity and heating. Minor adjustments to the feet are all that is needed; avoid adding shims under the slate unless the bed itself has moved.
Whichever way you do it, take your time. Rushing the shimming stage is the most common reason a rebuilt table plays off, and it is far easier to get it right while the cloth is off than to strip the table down again later.
When to call a fitter
If the table is a slate bed, especially a three-piece or snooker bed, levelling properly takes experience. It is easy to get the bed looking level on a cheap level but still have seams that lip and a surface that plays off. If you have had the table moved by someone who did not level it, or it has developed a roll since installation, a fitter can relevel it in a single visit.
When we move a table, rebuilding and levelling is included as standard. Local moves start from £195 for a 6–7ft English pool table and £295 for an 8–9ft American pool table, with distance, stairs and access affecting the final price.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to relevel my pool table after moving it?
Yes. A new room, a different floor and having the slates removed all change the level, so every moved table should be relevelled.
Can I use a normal spirit level?
A builder's spirit level will get you close, but an engineer's or machinist's level is much more accurate and is what fitters use.
Why does my pool table roll off after a move?
Usually because the bed was not shimmed and levelled properly on the rebuild, or the floor has settled. A fitter can relevel it.
See our pool table moving prices or find pool table movers near you.